It's not what you'd expect from a plate lunch spot.

The Western motif sort of throws you off.

But Pioneer Saloon, which just opened Monday on Monsarrat Avenue across from Waikiki Elementary School, is unexpected like that.

Outside the new restaurant in the space vacated by Mi Casa Taqueria.

Peeking inside.

The retail space isn't set up yet, but there are enough tables and chairs to get the restaurant side running.

The Japanese owners wanted to create a restaurant that served authentic — and delicious — Japanese-style plate lunches in a Western setting, complete with cow skulls and racks (still empty) for T-shirts and other clothing.

And though the place may look like a mixed metaphor, the food is seriously good.

Here's what we ate:

Pioneer is known for its musubis, such as this unagi one ($1.50 each).

I tried the konbu (kelp) and tuna with mayo ($1.50 each). Best after-work snacks.

The dried bonito fish musubi ($1.50 each) was interesting. The cheese was, uh, different.

I enjoyed the plate of croquette that came around.

Stuffed with mashed potatoes, corned and ground beef, that is fried to golden perfection.

The chicken katsu ($6) comes with gravy, katsu or miso sauce. And you can order brown rice.

While some may argue the best katsu doesn't need a sauce, this version is great without it, too. But how can you turn away gravy?

The potato salad that comes with the plate lunches is light and refreshing.

Unlike many plate lunch places, Pioneer has healthy alternatives such as this garlic butterfish ($8).

The garlic flavor was subtle, not overpowering. And it worked well with the oily butterfish.

The spareribs ($7) was tender and packed with flavor.

Very country-style spareribs.

The teriyaki beef steak plate ($6) is popular — and not just because it's relatively cheap.

The sweet homemade sauce is nicely done. And the meat was tender. Would've been great in a sandwich!

Parking is tough. There are two stalls next to the building. If you don't have parking karma, you'll have to find street parking.

But it's worth it. In fact, I'm going back today. Yes, it's that good.

Pioneer Saloon, 3046 Monsarrat Ave. Some parking. 732-4001.

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Follow Cat on Twitter @thedailydish, send her an e-mail at cat@thecatdish.com, and now watch her every Thursday at 6:45 a.m. on KHNL News 8.